Trekking in Nepal

Trekking Nepal

MAKALU

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TREKKING THE HIMALAYAS

MUSTANG 1991
KANCHENJUNGA 1993
ISLAND PEAK & MERA PEAK 1994
NARPHU 1996
MAKALU & EVEREST 1998
MANASLU & NARPHU 1999
MILKE DANDA & NORTH 2000
NORTH EAST NEPAL TREK 2002

ARUNACHAL PRADESH TREKS 2003

ADVICE and TREKKING AGENTS

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
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NORTH EAST NEPAL TREK 2002

At last the restricted areas of Nepal have been opened up so I decided to try and cover as much area as possible in five weeks of actual trekking. I was amazed on arriving at Kathmandu that it was relatively deserted with only about 30% of the usual number of tourists visiting. It made Kathmandu a much more pleasant place but I do not think it will survive much longer with such a huge loss of revenue. Again I arranged the trek at short notice but was able to get my good friend Getha as a guide. Things did not get off to a good start with no one picking me up from the airport but from there on things seemed alright.

01	I was going to try and fly into Taplajung but there were many problems. I did not like the idea of starting trekking from Tumlingtar at only about 2000 feet so I flew to Biritnigar and we got the local bus to Basantapur arriving about 7.00 at night. Basantapur is 8000feet / 2424 meters a really good height to start trekking from. This is typical of the tracks the buses use, a bulldozer makes a track in the land and that is what the buses run on.
02	We had real problems getting porters. The first five that Getha got just did not seem very keen saying they could get 400 Rupees a day when the rafting season started. Later that afternoon just as things were getting desperate we met Myler, from our trek in 2000, a real character who never stopped talking. He was instrumental in finding five good porters and I knew that we could get trekking the next day.
03	We were on the same trail as 2000 so I knew where to find the plants and seed . This is Mahonia nepalensis, unfortunately not hardy with us, but I got some seed of Lilium nepalensis from the same area.
04	We were going up the trail at the same time as a large Japanese group, here we are setting up camp. Notice the stool, after past experiences balancing food on my knees I insisted on having one, there was some competition as to who would get it first throughout the trek.
05	I always find the Nepalese way of walking fine if you are seed collecting but other times it is very difficult. I am used to just walking for two or three hours, but we walk for about 40 minuets then stop for five or ten minuets spoiling any rhythm.
06	We were sitting outside this hut whilst tea was being consumed and a Nepalese was laughing at the size of my hands and wrists, which were huge compared to his. I pointed down, everyone was killing themselves laughing, indicating we were large everywhere.
07	The very beautiful Crawfurdia speciosa, common and still flowering here at about 9000 feet / 2727 meters. I did manage to collect some seed but it is a plant that is borderline hardy here. I also collected seed of Rhododendron griffithianium, R. grande and R. dalhousiae coming down off the ridge.
08	We came off the ridge and plunged down dropping to just 2000 feet / 606 meters, the temperature was some 90°F about 38°C with high humidity. The umbrella really came into its own with many of the locals using them as well.
09	We dropped down to Dobhan trekking on until we came to a clearing by the river; a good opportunity to get clean and do some washing. A little further on I meet up with some friends, Sue and Bleddyn Wynn-Jones with Dan Hinkley and a friend trekking up through Hatiya, Thudam, Topke Gola and taking the low route down to Taplejung. They had made over 400 seed collections compared with my own efforts of just 130.
10	We were beginning to gain some altitude, this was one of the typical bridges we had to cross. We met an American couple who had just come over the pass we intended to cross with the good news that there was a good trail all the way They had been asked for donations from the Maoists paying some 16000 Rupees. I was quite impressed, not many people trek these more remote areas, but they told me that they had trekked in Nepal for many years.
11	Although it was the dry season there was still a good volume of water coming down the waterfalls, many quite spectacular.
12	We reached Shimbuk, 7280 feet. I was really surprised it is a large village of some 300 or so inhabitants. It is used extensively in the winter as the Yak herders bring their animals down for the winter. The mess tent was not used, we cooked and ate under the house. I had brought some 40 school books and pens with me intending to take them to Olanchunggola but trekking into Shimbuk we passed a large new school under construction, I decided to lighten a porters load and gave the books to the school master who was already in residence in the village. A villager came and talked to us after diner and we quizzed him on the trail to Olanchunggola. "Just three days walking", he said. He was over six feet tall, unusual for a Nepali, so I doubled that estimate to six days for me.
13	We walked through some very beautiful forests with huge old trees and wonderful stands of Rhododendrons, this is Rhododendron grande.
14	Also in the forest were lovely stands of Rhododendron arboreum, R. hodgsonii and this is R. falconeri, growing in a straight line along a rotting fallen tree, a really nice form, but all the seed collected turned out to be worthless.
15	Lunch stop with a herd of Yaks. Some 80 to 100 yaks passed us in the forest holding us up. For some time after that there was very little seed left to collect from the forest floor.
16	A form of shrubby euonymus with thin linear leaves.
17	This I think is Primula glomerata; a wonderful rich purple colour and a good size.
18	The first collection of Meconopsis paniculata with its glowing golden rosette of leaves.
19	The seed heads of Meconopsis are a great help in identifying the species.
20	Our camp at about 9900 feet / 3000 meters; we were getting to an altitude where the plants are all hardy. Wood was burnt where possible to conserve kerosene as we were not sure just how long it would take us to get over the pass to Olanchunggola, there were no villages on the way.
21	Again we walked through some very picturesque forests. This is a tall form of Betula utilis, I managed to collect some seed.
22	We came out of the forest to a clearing, we had been trekking for seven days and now we were gaining altitude quickly, I decided on a short day so we camped. I did my washing spreading everything out to air and dry in the sunshine.
23	Rhododendron campanulatum is extensive throughout east Nepal and there are some really nice forms with good thick indumentum, I made many seed collections. It is noticeable that most of the collections for sale in the U.K. are fairly tender with only sparse indumentun except for R. campanulatum aeruginosum.
24	Trekking up the valley to the right and then straight on we saw extensive thickets of Rhododendron campanulation with a few R. cinnabarinum with masses of Meconopsis paniculata but the Yaks passing through had destroyed any chance to collect much seed of the Meconopsis.
25	A really fine form of Rhododendron campanulatum. I hope to introduce this into commerce in the near future as already plants from the 2000 seed collections are looking very promising.
26	There were large areas of Meconopsis nepalense and M. paniculata higher up the valley covering the hillside, it must be a fantastic sight when in flower properly in May or June.
27	A rosette of Meconopsis nepalense.
28	The seed heads of Meconopsis nepalense.
29	The very spectacular golden rosette of Meconopsis paniculata
30	We are again climbing up rapidly to about 13,200 feet / 4000 meters and looking back from where we have come.
31	A short while after I took this photograph the porters were off following a big trail to the distant rocks but Getha mentioned to me that he thought the trail was off to the left where there was a pass with flags on.
32	Meconopsis nepalensis.
33	Getha was right first time. We ended up having to climb up sharp left at the end of the valley in order to get back on the trail. There were a number of Yak herders huts on the trail; we camped by one here at one of the many lakes along the trail at 13660 feet / 4139 meters. It was bitterly cold so I gave permission to enter the hut which was full of fire wood. I instructed Getha to leave some rupees as compensation to the owner.
34	The walking was quite easy and Getha and Lok helped carry a camera when I asked them, otherwise with three cameras in my rucksack, water, warm gear, etc I was carrying about 15 kilos; not what I planned on.
35	The route passed a number of lakes some with large water birds on them, geese I think.
36	This is the entire trekking crew: five porters, our cook Lok, and Getha my Guide. They seemed a bit slow low down but as we ascended the affects of the altitude slowed me down as usual. I usually started well in front of them in the mornings and those moments on my own following a good trail, enjoying the scenery and looking at plants were real magic.
37	The final pass at about 15,240 feet / 4618meters. I was carrying too much weight and found it really hard going but we had come up from low down the trail quite quickly gaining over 10,000 feet / 3030 meters in four days.
38	The drop off the other side down to Olanchunggola was very steep. We certainly came the easiest route.
39	The cream bark of Rhododendron hodgsonii with Lok our cook in attendance.
40	The map did not show a bridge here at Olanchunggola. In fact it indicted a crossing up the river. I was on my own after being left behind seed collecting so I mentioned to Getha to mark the route in future to save any problems. We had made it to Olanchunggola from Shimbuk in four and a half days at our leisure.
41	We had come across burnt out police posts in nearly every major village, this is the one at Olanchunggola where two years before the police had taken 150$ US to allow us to continue our trek. I must admit to a quiet feeling of satisfaction that the police had been ejected.
42	Olanchunggola was the first full rest day we had since starting the trek, it was day eleven and I was taking a few photographs; something I was not allowed to do in 2000. Notice the Yak dung drying on the walls, it is used as fuel and smoulders with an acrid smoke but is the ultimate in recycling.
43	It could get quite embarrassing as the villagers wanted to see what the inside of westerner's tents were like.
44	A vulture over the Monastery. We were given a guided tour by Tashi, the conservation officer who had given us such a hard time in 2000, but he was just fine this time. The visit to the Monastery was done quite reluctantly as I have seen many in my time in Nepal; the ones in Mustang and Narphu being most lavishly decorated. Of course a donation was expected and made.
45	I was surprised to find that many of the villagers went lower down the valley in the winter as up to two metres of snow can fall and make things very unpleasant. Just two days walk and one is down into a much warmer climate.
46	Two porters left us and I was perplexed as to how we were going to manage. Getha claimed that no porters were available but what really happened is that out of some 135,000 Rupees I had given to "Nima and Neema Treks Ltd" only some 55,000 Rupees was sent on the trek so I was carrying a full load myself for the rest of the trek. I will not use that agency again as it was not the first time I had had cause for concern over money matters.
47	Rhododendron thompsonii and typical seed heads, a nice form that had flowered prolifically.
48	The stunning bark of Betula utilis, many of them were quite distinct as we went over the passes from one isolated valley to another, seed was collected.
49	The high route to Yangma. On arriving in Olanchunggola a largish trekking group was taking the lower route to Yangma so I decided to give it a miss, a mistake I think as the higher route looked very promising, Yak herders were passing us, as we had lunch, going to Yangma for winter, so it was a village of some size.
50	Getha who should have been my guide, was helping me to collect seed and carry cameras. Here he was proudly carrying a load. I was carrying about 15 kilos which was not what I planned when we started off.
51	This was a very thickly indumented form of Rhododendron campanulatum "Mendolung Khola" form.
52	Approaching Rhododendron bureavii and R. pachysanthum in attraction of its indumentum, the wonderful foliage of Rhododendron campanulatum "Mendolung Khola" form.
53	Looking back down the valley. We had come down the same valley in 2000 but were going so quickly after going over the pass, I saw and remembered very little.
54	We climbed up a series of steps formed by the retreating glacier.
55	There was some discussion as to where to camp so I sent Lok to check out over the rise ahead, he reported back that there was better camping there and it would give us a better start to go over the pass the next day.
56	We arrived in camp about 2.00pm at 14700 feet but there was not enough time to attempt the pass. I remember the tent was nice and warm inside with the afternoon sun on it.
57	As usual I set out well before the others with a full load but climbed easily and steadily with fantastic views opening up before me. I followed the tracks of a snow leopard and it was remarkable how closely we followed its tracks all the way to the other side of the pass; must have been my donation to the monastery at Olanchunggola.
58	This was the same route in reverse as in 2000.
59	The pass up ahead was much further than it looks.
60	The last porter, Nima making it to the top, Kanchenjunga and Jarnu in the far distance. The pass is at about 16180 feet / 4903 meters.
61	It was much further coming down than I remembered but we were down the other side and finished lunch by 1.00pm. I put it to everyone to go on down to Thudam some three hours down the trail, instead of camping the other side of the pass. Everyone was keen to get going. I really flew down the trail having now become well acclimatised arriving half an hour in front of the others, we all made it in daylight.
62	Thudam. Well this place was a nightmare. It was a village out of control. There were no police in the area and the Maoists were a days trek away in the next village, Chyamlang, down the trail. We were only now six in total and we felt very threatened by the attitude of the villagers who were quite hostile. Lok had his socks stolen, a spoon went missing and my down jacket was cut. We seriously discussed whether to leave right away but decided against as it was 3.00pm and the next camp was at least three hours up the trail. I put a padlock on my tent zips that night for the first time ever. We took off early next morning before the villagers had stirred.
63	We saw some really nice Betula utilis again, quite distinct from previous collections.
64	We have many young plants of this growing in our nursery. They will make a fine plants for the garden.
65	The Moaists came in the night but we had already put together our story, Getha told them all our money had been left in Kathmandu, they took a small pressure-cooker. They make bombs out of them. This and our experience with the villagers made me modify my plans and go over the passes to Topke Gola. I had intended to go round via Hatiya and then up the trail to Tokpke Gola.
66	On our way, with relief up the valley to camp below the pass. I remembered it being a long walk down in 2000 with Getha having to go out with torches to bring in very tired, altitude affected porters and I did not want to repeat another marathon. We camped below the pass at 14050 feet and I collected some high altitude Meconopsis seed.
67	A feature of this trek was the weather. Apart from the pass over to Olanchunggola, it was about as good as it could be. Looking back down the valley from where we climbed up from.
68	What a difference the weather makes. All I got last time was a vague impression of where we were with low cloud and snow masking some really nice views. The pass was about 15250 feet / 4621 meters.
69	We take off down this way to Topke Gola
70	The trail down was easy but we were delayed a little, poor Lok was sent a good distance back up the trail to retrieve Gethas woolly hat; an essential bit of gear at altitude.
71	The small village of Topke Gola, all the villagers apart from one family had gone down to lower villages for the winter.
72	An old man came to camp and after some rather heated discussions with Getha he parted with 1000 Rupees. I asked him "What was that for?" He replied, "Camping fee." I told Getha next time to consult me first. We could have gone up into the woods as there was a wonderful camping spot there. About 150 rupees a night was the maximum he should have paid.
73	At last I find the sacred lake above Topke Gola. We just never found it last time even though it was only 20 minutes walk up the hill.
74	Another outstanding form of Rhododendron campanulatum "Sacred Lake" form.
75	Rhododendron campanulatum "Sacred Lake" form.
76	The forest around Topke Gola must have looked very beautiful in the spring with a multitude of flowering plants giving a kaleidoscope of colour.
77	A fantastic Betula utilis with nice red peeling bark approaching that of Acer griseum.
78	I had planned on two days at Topke Gola but on the spur of the moment I decided to move on instructing Getha to pack up so we would get trekking again. We left about 7.30am, some 250 Moaists came into the village about 10.30am after being pursued up the valleys by the army. We were very lucky I'm sure they would have taken everything, cameras and all.
79	Topke Gola right down in the bottom, the Moaists were properly in the village when this picture was taken.
80	The weather was again fine and clear. We had stunning views which we never saw in 2000.
81	I was well in front and going well. I was waiting for nearly half an hour on top, it was freezing so I insisted on having the mess tent erected for lunch.
82	Great views from the top of the pass just 14400 feet / 4363 meters but my recollection of the route from here on was poor.
83	I did remember the bleak lake on the other side, we follow the edge of the lake to the right.
84	Coming down the first waterfall pass we came across this prolific stand of Meconopsis paniculata. It was a really nice form.
85	The stunning golden hairy rosettes of Meconopsis paniculata.
86	The second waterfall pass. Without a guide, no wonder we got lost last time, though a porter climbed it in 2000 it was dismissed as the route, we were back at the same place two days later.
87	Coming down the waterfall pass Getha agreed that the route was straight up the valley. I set off on my own as usual the next morning. Another nice climb up but no sign of anyone. I lingered on top taking photographs getting more and more worried as there was not a sign of Getha and the trekking crew. I was reluctant to go down and investigate but all became apparent when a shout from high up to my right revelled that I was on the wrong pass.
88	Makalu. Lok climbed over, took my rucksack and guided me over a ridge to join Getha and the others. I was surprised Getha was quite upset. Getha had already had a bad experience on an earlier trek in 2002 when one of his clients fell badly and had to have a helicopter to fly her out. It can happen to anyone as some famous mountaineers can testify.
89	This is another pass. I just did not remember that there were two passes, Getha though remembered the route well considering how misty the weather had been last time.
90	The lake just as it should be coming off the pass down to the Jal Jale Himal.
91	Looking back up to the pass we have just come off.
92	We dropped off steeply down to a lake but the next morning we had to climb all the way back up to the lake in the distance.
93	We decided to camp and relax. The porters went and collected a quantity of fire wood and later as dusk was falling we heard a commotion from the pass. A herd of some 30 to 40 Yaks were being brought down to camp. We had by this time a huge pot of stew on the go. The Yak herder came over asking where the wood had been found; he was pointed in the direction the porters had been collecting. I was surprised I thought a fellow traveller on his own would have been welcomed and given food but it was not the case.
94	I set off the next day about 30 minutes in front of the trekking crew but stopping to take pictures, they were soon passing me and that turned out to be the hardest day of the trek. The walking was easy. We were contouring round at about 13500 feet but I just did not have any strength. In the end for the last hour Getha took my rucksack. That night again much to my surprise the Yak herder again turned up at camp, this time things were a bit more friendly he shared our fire and Getha bought some excellent Yak meat from him. I questioned him as to the value of a Yak, it worked out at about £120 each. With some 30 to 40 animals he was a rich man for a Nepali.
9 5	The sun went down to our left. We are looking nearly due north here. In the mess tent I pointed out the directions North, South, East and West but Getha and Lok insisted that North was South and visa versa. I told them I would bet them as much as they liked as I was right but no they wanted a really big bet. I kept it to just 200 Rupees, a days wage and took my compass out to prove the point.
96	Our Lunch Stop. This was where we camped in 2000 just after leaving the rest of the group. The lakes were very low. It was certainly the driest I had known it in Nepal.
97	I was walking well and we had a great day's trekking with wonderful views.
98	The trekking crew did really well. The only time I could actually go faster than them was on the steep climbs and on long downhill stretches but their stamina was incredible, each carrying about 45 kilos.
99	We had a really long day coming off the Milke Danda. Getha wanted to camp at about 10,000 feet in a bleak setting with very little water. I persuaded them to continue down the ridge and we found a really nice warm spot to camp, this village was just three hours down the trail from camp the next day where we relaxed and did our washing. It was supposed to be two days from here to Tumlingtar but I knew the porters were very keen to be getting home, only a couple of days walk for them to Basantapur. We made it to Tumlingtar at about three o'clock in the afternoon, really pushing hard all the way. There was a curfew from eight in the evening which made going to the loo a bit of a ordeal, I was worried about getting shot but we were away from the guards.
	Flights for me were quite easy. They like westerners to fly as they can charge more but Getha and Lok had to wait until the next day to fly out. The trek was soured on my return to Kathmandu by Nima refusing to compensate me for not having a guide and carrying far more weight than I really wanted to. I had to threaten to report him to the home ministry before he would part with any money. In the end I settled for 100$ US out of a claim of 500$ US but I did tell him what I thought of the corruption that pervades society in Kathmandu and that the old ways have gone. This really was a trek to tidy up unfinished business and although I did not make it to Hatiya, etc I found the trek very worthwhile and the real pleasure was the weather giving fantastic views across to the big mountains, but a new destination next time, want to come?

For more information please contact me

David Ketley

Dunge Valley Hidden Gardens
& Hardy Plant Nursery,
Windgather Rocks, Kettleshulme,
Nr. Whaley Bridge, (Stockport)
High Peak, SK23 7RF,
ENGLAND
Tel / Fax: 01663 733787

E-mail me at david@dungevalley.co.uk

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This Page was updated 01/01/2003