Trekking in Nepal

Trekking Nepal

KANCHENJUNGA AND JANNU

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TREKKING THE HIMALAYAS

MUSTANG 1991
KANCHENJUNGA 1993
ISLAND PEAK & MERA PEAK 1994
NARPHU 1996
MAKALU & EVEREST 1998
MANASLU & NARPHU 1999
MILKE DANDA & NORTH 2000
NORTH EAST NEPAL TREK 2002

ARUNACHAL PRADESH TREKS 2003

ADVICE and TREKKING AGENTS

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
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MILKE DANDA & THE NORTH 2000

For many years one of my ambitions was to take the same route as Roy Lancaster in 1971, as in his book "A Plantsman In Nepal" with an inspiring dialogue that I have read many times. In the book he describes a five month plant hunting expedition that he trekked with Len Beer, Dave Morris, John Witcombe with assistant Martin Mortimer who were interested in making seed collections of agricultural crops. This area is, since the Indo-China war of 1964 classified as a "Restricted Area", in other words impossible for westerners to get into with a trekking permit.

In 2000 I had been making enquiries around the U.K. and U.S.A. to see if I could join a trek. I was able to join a small plant hunting group from Scotland led by one of the most knowledgeable experts in the world, Ron McBeath, who was planning a short trip up the Milke Danda ridge in East Nepal; part of the same region covered by Roy Lancaster's book. I joined the group with some trepidation as a very keen grower with no professional training.

Also on the trek were Ian Christie, of Christies Nursery, a real plants-man and very knowledgeable on alpines, Bob Brown, working at Thrive Gardens, Magnus Ramsay, an x-Thrive man, a very knowledgeable plants-man and keen hill walker, and Ben Wilson, a man very willing to learn and a main helper at Ron McBeath's nursery in Scotland. Magnus, like myself had time, whilst the others had to be back within three weeks. So began a extraordinary journey which opened my eyes to how professionals work. The trek was arranged by e-mail with our good friends Nima and Tenzing Sherpa. tenzings@wwfnepal.org.np I was very pleased that Getha, who had already been with me on two of my previous treks, was able to join us.

MAP OF ACTUAL TREKKING ROUTE

01	Following the advice of good friends Peter and Pam Boardman the trek started with a flight to Biritnigar, up a long and un-metaled rough road to Basantpur, where we met up with the main trekking crews already assembled. Almost immediately seed collection began in earnest, Ron McBeath's knowledge and recollection of where to find the plant species was phenomenal. Having just finished an exhausting season at home, I was somewhat taken back at the sheer hard work the rest of the group put into seed collecting and once collected it would have to be cleaned, its collecting location noted and carefully stored for our return.
02	The all important cook and mess tent; food becomes a major theme whilst trekking.
03	The Milke Danda Ridge is quite well clothed in trees and shrubs.
04	Aconitum spicatum. Ron McBeath had been on some 27 treks and expeditions around the world so was most knowledgeable on all the plants we found. It was an excellent learning experience trekking with such experts.
05	We slowly gained altitude along the Milke Danda Ridge, there were a few other trekkers using this route on the way to Kanchenjunga.
06	Typical breakfast set up when you have a group of trekkers; steel table and chairs. Later when the group split we dispensed with them to save weight and a porter to carry them.
07	The all important cook's tent that would often also serve as the restaurant and as we finished our evening meal would be under some pressure to vacate it to allow the cook staff and porters in to use it for shelter and to sleep in.
08	There was a wealth of plants along the ridge: Sorbus, Rhododendron, Betula and many other wonderful plants, this is a form of Meconopsis nepalensis, I think.
09	Typical scene at camp with the bags of seed hung out to dry. Some considerable time was spent each night cleaning and packing the days seed collection.
10	As we progressed we caught glimpses of what I think were Makalu, with Peak 6, Chonku Chuli, Peak 7 and Chamlang from north to south.
11	Looking out to the west the huge shape of Makalu, 8,481 meters first climbed by the French in 1955.
12	Not many of the benefits of the trekking groups passing were apparent in the villages, they all looked very poor.
13	As we approached the Jal Jale Himal the landscape really began to look spectacular.
14	We were now on the Jal Jale Himal having just passed a small lake at about 4,000 meters.
15	Here is the intrepid trekking group with Ben Wilson, Ron McBeath, Ian Christie, and Magnus Ramsey. Bob was behind struggling a bit at this stage with the altitude and was feeling a bit rough.
16	We came off this small ridge to camp and could see in the distance where we would be going the next day, the lower of the small mountains, obscured by cloud, to the centre of the picture.
17	It was decided that the group would climb to the ridge above and Magnus and I would carry on. We had another four weeks or more to trek leaving the others to make their way back via another route. We are on a small mountain getting some wonderful views across to Kanchenjunga and Jannu.
18	We had parted company, it was day eight of the trek, I felt quite relieved, Magnus proved a really good companion for the rest of the trek. The small mountain we climbed for the views is to the left of the picture.
19	Magnus and I dropped down with our small trekking crew, lead by my good friend Getha, to camp by the lake.
20	The porters were brought in from Kathmandu and were regulars at the Trekking agency, this is a good policy as one never knows what the availability is of local porters or how reliable they will be.
21	The wonderful hairy rosettes of Meconopsis paniculata glowing a rich golden yellow. The flower spike is about a meter tall with yellow flowers in the spring. I now have these and a number of other species for sale. www.dungevalley.co.uk
22	Looking far out to the east we could see the huge mass of Kanchenjunga and further to the south the rocky pinnacle of Jannu.
23	The stunning sky-blue flowers of Gentians were always a joy to behold in the fairly barren autumn landscape.
24	The porters although only lightly built are able to carry 30 to 50 kilos, their fitness and ability to carry these loads day after day is incredible.
25	Looking along the ridge due north.
26	Magnus and I had one small luxury, a loo tent, it can be very embarrassing otherwise near the villages, they were very curious and followed you everywhere and I'm told we looked like funny pink blobs to the Nepalese.
27	We agreed at the outset to have our own tents, this was mine, I was airing my sleeping bag.
28	Looking off to the north to where we were heading. The whole area was over-grazed by Yaks. The resulting loss of vegetation often leads to erosion of the soil and as with this country is detrimental to the flora and fauna.
29	The walking was quite hard but we were always enticed by the terrain ahead, wondering what would be round the next corner.
30	The route was new for everybody, some discussion here as to where the trail would take us.
31	We came off the top of the pass in the distance and although the trail looked quite difficult it was in fact most enjoyable.
32	Magnus with the trail off into the horizon. The sun is very intense so a good sun hat is essential.
33	We contoured around the mountains at about 4,000 meters, the days were quite long and our spirits were high.
34	The Yaks were being brought down for the winter.
35	We had some days of ten hours walking so this day was a short day to give the porters and us time to rest.
36	More Yaks coming down from the pass leading to "Rhubarb Hill". We could have spent a couple of days exploring here but wanted to get on to Topke Kola.
37	We found the Rheum nobile above the pass and many good plants including Gentians. Coming off the pass we came across a high waterfall with a path up it. The route was checked out but dismissed by one of the porters so we followed what we thought was the trail. The mist came down and the trail became less distinct until late in the afternoon it was decided to camp when we had found some water.
38	The following morning it was a mystery as to where we were. Opposite us seemed to be a trail on the side of a hill so we set off with Getha taking us down a dry watercourse that got steeper and steeper. Things were getting a bit dangerous particularly for the porters carrying 50 kilos so I insisted on trying to lead the group on a more secure route. The cloud and mist was thick by now and although we followed a trail it petered out and we had climbed up quite a distance. I found out the following morning we had nearly gone a full circle on a high plateau and looking out west to our disbelief was Rhubarb Hill again.
39	It was a classic case where a compass would have helped but Magnus had his in his rucksack. In the valley far below we could see some Yak herders.
40	Getha bounded off down the hill to the Yak herders tent to hire a guide.
41	We contoured around the hill. It was a very steep drop off but the porters were fantastic and we made our way down to the valley floor. A three hour walk brought us back to the waterfall and our guide took us up and only left us when we were sure of our route to Topkegola
42	On top of the waterfall a bleak rocky route.
43	So at last we came down to Topkegola. On the way down we passed a small tent and joining Getha were given some warm Yak milk. We passed through some wonderful forest glades with a multitude of trees and shrubs, it must be a wonderful sight when the Rhododendrons are in flower in the spring.
44	The weather had closed in and it had snowed in the night, the pass we had come over the day before was covered.
45	There were some beautiful forests around Topkegola with a wealth of interesting plants.
46	The houses were stone at the base where the animals were kept. The main living quarters was on the first floor.
47	We planned on a rest day here and explored the area collecting much good seed of Gentians, Sorbus, Betula, Rhododendrons, Berberis and much else besides. We did not get up to the sacred lake higher above us as the weather was wet and cold and in fact it was not until later did we realized where we were.
48	Our trekking route now took us up into the restricted area.
49	We insisted on hiring a guide for the next part of the trek Getha said "he had found two Ladies going over to Thudam, would we like to go? Without hesitation we agreed. I don't think the implications of taking westerners into a restricted area dawned on Getha and so we just went with it. We set off the next day up a trail by the left of the waterfall.
50	We climbed a total of three small passes, this was the top of the second pass.
51	Getha on top of the third pass, the Thangle Bhanjyang, about 5,000 meters. The weather on top was poor and when it started to snow we made haste so missing many of the views from the top.
52	A large lake was away to our left but the weather was poor and the porters were not really equipped for prolonged camping in such conditions.
53	We set off dropping down quickly into the valley that flattened out into a broad plain and it was very easy walking for about five hours, arriving at Thudam at dusk.
54	We set up camp quite late in the day; another long one. The porters seemed only a short way behind but as it got later it became apparent three were missing. We handed our head torches to Getha who went out in haste with the others to find the missing men. At about 7.30 pm they arrived back safely, one of the porters had succumbed to the altitude on the pass and the other two helped him down. We gave him an aspirin but he was better for the descent down to Thudam at just 3,636 meters.
55	The houses in Thudam were typical; the village seemed very poor with little passing trade. Getha purchased some Yak meat and we got the liver. It was a real treat, everyone was well fed and warm.
56	The river was used for washing the clothes and everything else.
57	The forest around had many good plants of Rhododendron and birch, this is Betula utilis.
58	Primula glomerata. We explored the area waiting for the weather to clear finding many nice plants.
59	Prunus rufa, a wonderful small tree with red shiny, peeling bark. I searched around the base of many trees looking for the fruit stones but only found a few.
60	Rhododendron cinnabarinum. I was surprised to find a few in flower but it did allow me to collect seed and to be reasonably sure of the flower colours.
61	Rhododendron cinnabarinum is a very variable species; this one had much larger leaves and flowers.
62	Betula utilis another very variable species. This specimen had good pink red bark and made a tree of about 5 meters. These and another good collection from Topkegola have produced vigorous seedlings which will make nice trees for the garden.
63	After raining hard in the night we awoke to a carpet of snow preventing our departure for the pass. By lunch time the sun had melted most of the snow so Magnus and I climbed up the trail to check it out.
64	The Gentians were stunning. The trail was fine and we were keen to get going the following morning.
65	We awoke to one of those fantastic clear mornings and walked back up to where we had explored to the day before. This is where Roy Lancaster went on his 1971 trek, we turned right for Olangchunggola.
66	Our cook, they have to be the fittest members of the trek, getting into camp ahead of everyone to have tea and food ready.
67	Our guide he was paid well for guiding us. I think Getha was taking some commission.
68	We turn here up to the right taking the trail for Olangchunggola.
69	Still a light covering of snow from the day before but it was not a problem.
70	We camped below the pass at about 4,363 meters. It was cold, the porters were feeling it even though we had supplied them with warm gloves and socks. They often come ill prepared for the cold at altitude.
71	Early morning looking back down the valley the way we had come.
72	The pass is up the valley and to the left.
73	It was quite a steep climb up and, as usual, the porters did very well.
74	It was tempting to linger and explore the area but we pressed on to get over the pass.
75	Makalu was in the distance.
76	The views as we gained altitude were stunning.
77	Lumba Samba Peak 5,672 meters.
78	Makalu in the distance, we were quite far north, nearly on the Tibetan border.
79	Lunch stop just before the top of the pass, the water was frozen in the container but we did eventually get a cup of tea.
80	Magnus climbed very steadily, the ideal way to go high, we were both enjoying a memorable day.
81	Looking out towards Lumba Samba Peak. It would have been great to have explored the area a bit more but we had not planned a long stay high up and therefore were not equipped.
82	Nearly at the top, the huge mass of Makalu 8,720 meters dominated the skyline in this westerly direction.
83	The top of the pass, we contoured round to the left.
84	Looking back.
85	We relaxed on top for some time taking in the views.
86	Getha, Magnus and I, great company and a very memorable day's trekking.
87	Fantastic views from the top of the pass of the Kanchenjunga Massif with the rock mass of Jannu to the south.
88	There is a still, quiet atmosphere in these high places. It really is special.
89	There was quite a lot of snow on the east side of the pass but this added to the views.
90	Coming down we found some Rhubarb. Getha here with a plant of Rheum nobile. I had a knack of spotting these from a distance and collected much seed.
91	We were heading to camp in the flat valley bottom below.
92	Map of the trekking route.
93	The shadows were lengthening and it was getting cold so we made our way down quickly. The wind in the valley was blowing hard but the trekking crew insisted on putting the tent broadside into the wind, it blew down in the night.
	The next morning we set off to Olanchunggola and on arriving went straight to the police; they were amazed to see us. I had Getha looking after all my video and camera gear. If they had searched us we could have been in real trouble. We camped and Getha went with our passports to the police. They wanted a fine of 15,000 rupees about �150. This was not a problem but were told by the villagers that this would continue down the trail at other police posts. We told Getha that we would pay them if we had a receipt but they didn't want to know. I told Magnus that I had paid this much just to get into the restricted area of Narphu myself and if they allowed us to continue to trek in the Restricted Area over to Ghunsa it would be OK. The fine was paid the next morning and we set of rapidly but just as we were about to leave the Conservation Officer rushed out and insisted we stay telling us we had to go with him to Taplejung to his area boss. We were really taken aback and made quite a scene. The policeman turned up and I asked him which way could we go, "over the pass to Ghunsa or down to Taplejung?" He said, "You can go either way". We pointed out to the Conservation officer that the police had the overall power and again set off down the trail in great haste. It must be said that the conservation officer was a very straight guy, he objected strongly to the fact we had had to pay a bribe to the police and wanted nothing to do with them.
94	Going down the trail we turned left up the valley of the Yangma Khola. My camera gear remained stashed away until we got to camp, we were heading this way to go over the Nango La pass to Ghunsa and were still in the Restricted Area.
95	Wonderful red flowers of Rhododendron cinnabarinum. Again I managed to collect some seed.
96 97	We came to a small camp by the side of the river. Getha went in and chatted with the locals, we were quite tired after all the excitement of the day before. Magnus here with a typical local dog.
98	We crossed the river and climbed up a steep path that flattened out. We were in a forest of Rhododendrons and pine trees. This is the red bark of Rhododendron barbatum, which has blood red flowers in the spring.
99	Looking back the way we had come, although we could hear water in the distance it took us well past lunch time to find this clearing and access to the small river.
100	The porters coming in to set up camp
101	I felt very tired and suggested camping at midday, Magnus readily agreed and I slept for a couple of hours.
102	We headed off in this direction up the valley the next day.
103	We came up this valley from camp. The whole area to the left was covered with Meconopsis grandis and seed collected has produced plants for sale.
104	We walked to the left of the glacial moraine in front of us.
105	Here was Magnus striding off up to the pass the next day, he was going well.
106	The top of the pass was far lower than the map showed, about 4,500m. There was a small trail to the north to the small village of Janitar, another day maybe?
107	Coming down the pass we camped on a large flat area looking out onto the Sinion La with Jannu out of sight to the left. We had not got enough time, we estimated to go up to Pangpemba to see the north face of Kanchenjunga but Getha thought the alternative would be back down the trail to Taplejung. I remembered the Sinion La Pass as a wonderful trek in 1993 and suggested the route to Magnus. He pointed out that the way was blocked by a police post on the bridge across the Ghunsa Khola but we decided to give it a try.
108	Getha could be in real trouble I realized so offered him �20.00 to get us all across safely without getting caught by the police. I took Magnus's binoculars and told everyone to wait and see if I could get through Ghunsa to the pass without being stopped. This was Ghunsa in 1993 not a tea house to be seen, now there must be thirty or more.
109	We set off and as we were back on the main trail there was a lot of traffic so I told Getha to stay back and just walked across the bridge through Ghunsa and headed up the path to the pass a short way, Getha arrived a little later. I told him I would wait there whilst he brought the others across. Nearly four hours later I feared the worst, that the police had stopped Magnus and we were in trouble again. I crept back down to the tea houses on the outskirts of Ghunsa leaving my rucksack outside and went in for some tea, Getha and the others turned up about twenty minutes later worse for drink but it had been a long time since we had any celebrations so I turned a blind eye to the fact they had left me on the pass. We were looking north here up to Kharka, the route to the north face of Kanchenjunga.
110	There was a fight between two porters, one hitting another over the head with a bottle. Here he was being flown out by helicopter as an emergency.
111	Coming down to Ghunsa from the Sinion La pass in 1993, I remarked to Noel Walsh, the trek leader, that "the valley ahead looked inviting." "No chance," he said "that's a Restricted Area". We came over the pass behind the mountain and to the left.
112	We had quite an easy walk up to camp at Rapka Kharka. In the afternoon the cloud came in obscuring the mountains but I still climbed up behind the camp to try and get some views. German trekkers had just come over the pass into camp. I asked them what they thought of the views of Jannu but they said they couldn't see anything because of the cloud. It is quite amazing how ones perception of a trek can be so different, what was one of the highlights of the trek in 1993 was just a cold hard walk over a pass for them.
113	It was a wonderful clear day and we were privileged to get such fantastic views.
114	The fearsome rock spire of Jannu 7,710 meters was first climbed by the French in 1962.
115	We are spoiling the picture!
116	Coming down and making our way to the next high point we pass this fantastic rock tower.
117	Magnus wanted to try and get up high as this would be our last chance. The mountains to the left looked too involved for a quick jaunt so we headed out onto the hill to the left.
118	The walk down to Tseram was longer than I remembered, the others were well ahead of Magnus, Getha and myself. We met an American guy there who owned property on the west coast of the USA. He was out trekking with his girlfriend for three months; lucky couple.
119	We took our time coming down the trail by the Simbua Khola passing many trekking groups along the way. We had had over three weeks in the Restricted Area without seeing another westerner. It was a bit of a shock to see so many trekkers on the trail.
120	As we got to the hotter climate lower down we felt the urge to get back and pushed on. One day we went a bit too far for the porters, they didn't make it to camp until long after dark and were not amused. As we approached Suetar Airport near Taplejung we became quite anxious again as many of the police stationed at Oalangchunggola lived here. There were no flights out for at least two days as low cloud had caused a backlog. I cursed the idea of staying in this grotty place for any time at all, it was not appealing. What about the bus? suggested Getha jokingly, but without any hesitation Magnus and I said, "lets go!" And so began the longest and most strenuous bus journey in my life. The bus went from Taplejung at about 4pm but it was a very long way from Ilam on the main road near to the Sikkim border. It was 9am in the evening and we were shattered when we arrived but had to be up at 5pm to get the bus for Kathmandu. This driver was a maniac passing other traffic round blind bends. I was glad when we arrived back in Kathmandu later that evening. So ended a eventful and memorable journey with a good companion, Magnus. Now I await the seed collected to grow and make saleable plants.

For more information please contact me

David Ketley

Dunge Valley Hidden Gardens
& Hardy Plant Nursery,
Windgather Rocks, Kettleshulme,
Nr. Whaley Bridge, (Stockport)
High Peak, SK23 7RF,
ENGLAND
Tel / Fax: 01663 733787

E-mail me at david@dungevalley.co.uk

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This Page was updated 01/05/2002