Trekking Nepal
Jannu from above Kambachen

JANNU FROM ABOVE KAMBACHEN

TREKKING THE HIMALAYAS

MUSTANG 1991
KANCHENJUNGA 1993
ISLAND PEAK & MERA PEAK 1994
NARPHU 1996
MAKALU & EVEREST 1998
MANASLU & NARPHU 1999
MILKE DANDA & NORTH 2000
NORTH EAST NEPAL TREK 2002

ARUNACHAL PRADESH TREKS 2003

ADVICE and TREKKING AGENTS

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
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KANCHENJUNGA TREK 1993

This was a trek organized through "Classic Nepal" now "Nepal Adventures". Some 12 people were on the trek and I found out from some members, on my return, all was not sweetness and light.  I guess that this often happens when complete strangers get together in what can become a stressful situation particularly in the mess tent at night when there is no getting away from each other. This was my second trek, looking at the spectacular south and north faces of Kanchenjunga in 1993. The area had only been opened recently to trekkers so it still had a nice feel to it. Coming back down the trail in 2000, I was amazed at the difference seven years makes with tea houses springing up where there was just a clearing in the jungle before. 

The trek commenced with a flight to Biratnigar from Kathmandu and then a flight to Suketar airport above Taplejung. Kanchenjunga is on the north eastern border of Nepal and Sikkim.

Map of Kanchenjunga Trek

MAP OF ACTUAL TREKKING ROUTE

The Trekking Group 01The flight in was quite concerning with the pilot making a couple of passes around the landing strip because of low cloud. Although it was only some 2500 m /8250 feet I felt the altitude in fact one of the party, John I think, had to be helped to camp. This was breakfast on the first day about 3 hours out from Suketar airport.
Nepalese Children 02 The Nepalese children were friendly and smiling but always filthy by our standards. Basic hygiene would cure many of the ailments afflicting the populous but that will come with education.
Village 03 Many of the villages were very idyllic looking quite clean and prosperous in their own way. The villages are self sufficient, the produce being traded up and down the trails but everything has to be carried, usually on someone's back.
Yapadin 04Camp by the Kabeli Khola by the village of Yampadin, not the best place in case of flash floods and the noise of the river was quite pronounced.
Ridge above Yampadin 05The climb up from Yampadin Dhupi on the way to the Banjang pass took us through some classic Rhododendron forest. Rhododendron hodgsonii with its large leaves.
 By Simbu Kola 06 Wonderful walking alongside the Simbu Khola with many nice plants to study along the way.
 Simbu Kola 07A wonderful old plant of Rhododendron falconerii with many small seedlings around its base. It was damp with low low cloud and light rain.
Tseram Camp 08 It was snowing lightly as we arrived at Tseram but the tents were soon up. Early morning at Tseram, it was cold with frost on the ground but the day was promising with the peaks of the big mountains on the horizon.
Kabru Reflection 09 On the way to Ramze with stunning views of Mt. Kabru and Mt. Rathang reflected in shallow water.
Ramze 10Ramze at 4360 m /14279 feet; our camp was tucked in the far right. It would have been nice to have had time to explore this area but with an organized trek this is just not possible as each days trekking is set out in stone.
To Base Camp 11 On our way up to the south face of Kanchenjunga.
South Face of Kanchejunga 12 We saw avalanches coming down the face of Kanchenjunga but from this direction the mountain is not very spectacular. The mountain was first climbed in 1955. We are at about 15500 feet here.
Tseram below 13 Back down to Tseram to camp and the next day a long climb up to the Mirgin 4400 m /14452 ft Sinion 4600 m /15180 ft and Tamo La's 4300 m /14190 ft.
Makalu in Distance 14 A spectacular day's walk high above the valleys with the Makalu, Baruntse and Chamlang massive in the far distance.
Herringbone Sky 15 An extraordinary sky highlighting a wonderful days walking. Looking back to the Sinion La.
Jannu Camp 16 Over the pass and dropping down to camp on a rather damp site on the flat ground in view.
Jarnu 2000 17 Fantastic views of Jannu and the weather is good.
Dropping Down to Ghunsa 18 Dropping down to Ghunsa looking north to where we will be trekking in the next few days.
Ghunsa 19Ghunsa still relatively un-spoilt in 1993, I collected many seeds of Rhododendrons in this area and on the pass from Tseram which are now for sale as plants some seven years on, see www.dungevalley.co.uk 
Meconpsis paniculata 20 Meconopsis paniculata wonderfully coloured rosettes which put up a spike of yellow flowers in the spring.
Crossing The Bridge 21 On our way up the Ghunsa Khola, a tentative crossing by all.
Looking North 22 Ghombu, my porter with the solar panel attached to my ruck sack. The Video camera was an Cannon A1 Hi8, a rather large machine by today's standards. The solar panel charged a battery belt of some 4 hours duration. The system never let me down.
Junnu 23We drop down to the left to camp at Kambachen 4250 m /14025 feet. I remember it being extremely cold, my new sleeping bag was under filled by the manufacturers so was only a three season bag. I should have sued them but was given the warmest bag they made free of charge. It was natural fiber and such a monster I have never taken it trekking using a down sleeping bag instead, much smaller and lighter.
Jannu 24My climb up high above Kambachen the next day revealed even more spectacular views of Jannu first climbed by the French in 1965. The others crossed the river and went on up to Jannu base camp.
North from Kambachen 25 From the same vantage point looking north to where we shall be trekking the next day, camp will be at Lhonak, the plateau on the far left of the picture 4780 m /15774 feet.
Pang Pemba 26 Pang Pema 5150 m /16995 ft; there were still a few Yaks grazing but shortly were to be taken down to lower altitudes for the winter.
Kanchenjunga Evening 27 When we got to Pang Pema in the afternoon I climbed some way up the hill at the back of camp.
North Face of Kanchenjunga 28We all set out to climb the blip at the back of camp the next day and gained over 303 m /1000 ft with great effort at altitude; very worth while. The huge north face of Kanchenjunga.
Chang Himal 29 Chang Himal 6750 m /22100 ft to the left with Jannu in the distance. 
 Jongsang Glacier 30 Looking out towards the Nepal Gap.
Coming Back 31 On our way back down, the small hill we climbed was up to the left of the picture with a small amount of snow and ice on top.
Dropping Down 32 The walks back down take only half the time of the accent. Dropping down steeply here through mixed forest and bamboo. One of the Sherpas slipped badly here, severely spraining his ankle and had to be carried. From here it was three more days to Taplejung with a climb up and flight out of Suketar airport to Biritnigar and flight the next day to Kathmandu. This was a 31 day trip Heathrow to Heathrow and as unusual another week would have really made this a better experience but very few people can get more than four weeks off work. I remember this trek for being very cold most nights.
For more information please contact me

David Ketley

Dunge Valley Hidden Gardens
& Hardy Plant Nursery,
Windgather Rocks, Kettleshulme,
Nr. Whaley Bridge, (Stockport)
High Peak, SK23 7RF,
ENGLAND
Tel / Fax: 01663 733787

E-mail me at david@dungevalley.co.uk

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