Trekking Arunachal Pradesh

Namche Barwa ?

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TREKKING THE HIMALAYAS

MUSTANG 1991
KANCHENJUNGA 1993
ISLAND PEAK & MERA PEAK 1994
NARPHU 1996
MAKALU & EVEREST 1998
MANASLU & NARPHU 1999
MILKE DANDA & NORTH 2000
NORTH EAST NEPAL TREK 2002

ARUNACHAL PRADESH TREKS 2003

ADVICE and TREKKING AGENTS

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
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Arunachal Pradesh 2003

          To see the real botanical treasures of the Himalayas requires travelling further to the east, where the weather favours the growth of a much larger diversity of species than in more western regions like Nepal. This fact and my bad experiences in Nepal with the Maoists in 2001 persuaded me to plan a trek to the area of Arunachal Pradesh. The usual problem of trekking companions was quickly overcome as Magnus Ramsay, my friend with whom I had trekked in 2000, told me immediately that he was keen on coming and later on Michael Wickenden of Cally Gardens also decided to join us. I was very pleased that Michael decided to join us, as his experience travelling to remote places throughout the world and his knowledge of plants, in addition to Magnus', proved invaluable.

           The region of India known as Arunachal Pradesh is one of the most unexplored areas of the Himalayas. We knew it to be botanically rich from reading F. Kingdon Ward's book "Plant Hunting on the Edge of the World", which describes his travels in the Lohit region in far east Arunachal Pradesh and also indicated that many interesting plant species were waiting to be found there.

           Jon Miceler of "High Asia" began organising the trek and the permits required for visiting the region, with the usual problems of course. At the last minute we discovered that the permits were not going to be available until the 15th of November and so, as we had already booked and were committed to flying out for the 5th of November,  it was decided to do a fill-in trek to western Arunachal Pradesh.

          So began a journey that was extreme in the distances travelled and arduous in its nature. We encountered problems from the start, as a strike at Heathrow airport meant we were unable to fly on Monday 2nd November. Frantic phone calls on Tuesday did not resolve the problem; there was no availability on any other flights (I was even considering taking a holiday flight to Goa), but just as things were looking bleak we received a phone call from Jordanian Airlines asking us to be at Heathrow for 4.30pm that afternoon. Panic erupted once again trying to book flights from Manchester to Heathrow, which eventually ended up costing £140 each instead of just £27. More problems arose in Amman, as there was no immediate connecting flight, and then we learnt that our flight was to be at 6.30pm the next day, so once again we were left waiting. We eventually flew into Delhi and took another connecting flight straight from there to Guwahati, saving a day we thought was lost and ultimately only losing one day of trekking overall. After all the hassle began three treks, each of which would prove to be a quite unique experience.

Western Arunachal Pradesh (A)            Lohit Region (B)            Towards Myanmar, (Burma) (C)

TREK A

ALONG THE BHUTAN BORDER

Western

Arunachal Pradesh

The western Arunachal Pradesh trek was to fill time in as our permits for the Lohit region would not be ready until the 15th of November and we were committed to arrive on the 5th. We were met by our guide Komkar Rida as soon as we arrived at Guwahati after frantic phone calls from Delhi. We immediately set off on a six hour drive up the trail heading towards Bomdila. The next day we dropped in at the Orchid Sanctuary and it was pleasing to see so much good work being done. From there it was around another 6 hours on to Bomdila. At some 8,000 feet, we met large convoys of Indian Army trucks coming down the single track road and about another two hours to our hotel.
 01a Our view up the valley from our hotel. It was very clear that the area had been populated in order to lay claim to it after the incursion by China in 1963.
02a We started with a long climb up from the road from about 5,000 feet to over 9,000 feet but it was quite easy going. As we passed through the village we were asked to the Gompa and after making the customary donations, I asked the Head Man if he had seen any other westerners. "Yes," he replied, "in October." I immediately thought of the Coxes but they went much further east.
03a We could make out some of the higher peaks in the distance. No snow on them, we were pleased to see, as we were very late in the season for trekking.
04a I was surprised to find Rhododendron arboreum flowering but couldn't make out if this was normal or an exceptionally good year.
05a Another R. arboreum; a nice form but I was getting disenchanted. I had only seen two Rhododendron species and thought it was going to be a disappointing trek.
06a Some little distance from camp all of a sudden there were prolific quantities of Rhododendrons, many I had never seen before in the wild such as R. falconeri ssp eximium and many others I could not immediately put a name to.
07a R. falconeri and R. falconeri ssp eximium were growing in great quantities. It was a delight to see many Rhododendron species, some 14 in all in an area of just a few miles.
08a It was disappointing to be the only person interested in the Rhododendrons on the trek. I am purely an amateur compared to the experts who have done many pioneering treks with extensive contact with Rhododendron species in the wild so I had many problems putting names to some of the species I found.
09a The porters were doing very well, we had been expecting problems but we found them very helpful and able to handle their loads limited to 20 kilos by the government.
10a An absolutely stunning Rhododendron falconeri ssp eximium, even Magnus and Michael were impressed.
11a A flowering plant of R. thompsonii alongside it was R. meddianum.
12a We walked on up through the forest and along a road under construction with the braziers of the Nepali workers heating the tarmac. It looked like a scene from some sort of disaster movie where much of the forest was burnt out and they were logging the remainder. Camp that night was in one of the bleakest camp sites I have ever stayed at but the next morning as soon as we entered the unspoilt forest again Rhododendron flinckii appeared until it was the dominant species.
13a Rhododendron flinckii is an outstanding species but with very variable foliage and pale yellow flowers.
14a I grow R. flinckii at home but give it a height of just 3 feet in our catalogue. This specimen was about 12 feet. I also found R. cinnabarinum, R. fulgens, R. hodgsonii and much else besides.
15a As we climbed I found R. bhutanense; another very nice species, again there was a lot of variation as we gained altitude.
16a A Rhododendron intermediate between the two; a possible hybrid?
17a We crossed a pass at 13,200 feet, then a high alpine meadow. We were coming down the trail here between huge thickets of R. flinckii and R. bhutanense; these formed the main under understory in the forest.
18a A wonderful days walking and camp is just a few minutes away.
19a Our porters with Bhutan in the distance.
20a We were told there was an old hunter's trail we could use to exit, just a short distance down the trail. We had yet another of those horrible drop offs through thick forest down an old trail that slowly disappeared leaving us with a steep and dangerous climb down to a small river as it was getting dark. The next morning we sent the porters out to find the trail but they reported back that it was just too dangerous so it was back to the top again.
21a I set off at great speed in order to make up time as the porters had been dawdling up until then. I knew it was going to be a long day. This is lunch stop although Nerunda, our Nepalese cook, had packed lunch I couldn't help looking at the rather appetizing curry the porters were cooking. They served me a bowl full; it was very good but had far too much Chilly for me.
22a This was wonderful trekking, contouring between 12,500 feet and 13,240 feet.
23a Looking back the way we had come.
24a I was worried, there was talk of camp being somewhere near but we were much too high, over 13,000 feet, to camp without feeling the ill affects of altitude.
25a A very beautiful sacred lake. I was really pushing on, giving myself very little time to look at the plants.
26a I arrived in camp with the porters as it was going dark, the mess tent was a priority, then brewing some tea. Michael and Magnus were late in so I instructed the porters to take my flask up the trail with some torches but they met only about a mile from the camp. It snowed in the night and we were told it was a long way down to the road head where we had arranged to be picked up by Komkar.
27a On our way down we could see across to the route where we had trekked some days before.
28a I caught this glimpse of the big mountains off to the north-east, possibly Gorichen.
29a We dropped steeply down through the forest coming out on a steep grassy bank covered with many good perennials. It must have been a beautiful sight when in full flower in the Spring.
30a Lunch stop; we had dropped down from around 12,500 feet to 8,000 feet and it was really warm. I remember being very thirsty. We descended to a small river and walked briskly until dusk where our guide, Komkar met us on the road and took us back to our hotel.
31a So we completed the shortest trek I have ever done. It was all the more remarkable as I had seen over 27 different Rhododendron species, more than ever before.
OUR TREKS IN EASTERN ARUNACHAL PRADESH

B Middle

C Lower

TREK B

THE DAU RIVER TO THE HALAI RIVER VIA LAKE ANGLAP

01b We set off with Komkar and his driver for the Lohit region knowing we had a long way to go and a day late. After crossing the Brahmaputra river we stayed at a very nice hotel on a wildlife reserve, this was a huge beetle the size of my hand on the floor. I mentioned my love of Nan Bread to Komkar and he arranged for us to drop into a Hotel in Dibrugarh where at lunch we had a memorable meal of Chicken Tikka Massala and Butter Nan. It was just superb.

 

02b After our lunch in Dibrugarh we still had a long way to go to meet Jon at Tezu so we set off again crossing into the restricted area. We came to the massive estuary of the Brahmaputra just as it was going dark, this is our Indian Landrover.
03b This is our ferry. I was quite worried. They were building a new bridge upstream to be opened in 2004 so I had my doubts on the servicing and repair of the ferries. We crossed two main channels safely in the dark then we had a long drive weaving around over small bridges and sandbanks until we reached Tezu at about 6.30pm meeting Jon and his friend Daniel.
04b This is the huge delta as all the rivers join to form the beginning of the Brahmaputra.
05b Jon also informed us that he had organised another trek to the south as we would possibly finish this one early as the trek was now limited in its scope.
06b We travelled for some time along a tarmac road, then turned off and had a long drive up a track to Cambling village. The next day as the porters were being organised  the children were entranced.
07b Daniel was doing his party piece. It certainly worked, the children would normally be very shy and impossible to photograph.
08b A grain store built entirely out of bamboo. It is a an essential building material and performed a multitude of tasks such as carrying harnesses for our loads.
09b This is the basic structure of a long house some 50 to 60 feet long. It takes about six months to complete  and it can house up to five families.
10b Jon our trekking agent. We never really got to know him as after two days he and Daniel fell ill and left us, Daniel with a stomach complaint, Jon a chest infection, a left over from an earlier trip to Burma now Myanmar.
11b We were following an old hunter's trail, it was difficult going often steep with big drop offs. There were many Rhododendrons some just in a small areas, others quite prolific along the trail. I had a really hard time trying to put names to them not having seen them anywhere before.
12b This one I could name Rhododendron glaucophyllum with pink flowers in the spring.
13b Kingdom Ward's description of the local tribes, the Mishmies was not very good, he described them as unreliable, hard to work with and many other derogatory comments but we found them absolutely fine in all respects. Lunch stop, we are following the side of a river here, it was really hard walking, clambering over large slippery boulders.
14b Problems with my camera, I thought the memory stick I had just purchase from dabs.com had 256mb when in fact it was only 128mb. Never again, also I just couldn't get good close up shots many coming out blurred meant many photographs are missing.  I take a video camera but was determined not to see the trek just through a camera lens.
15b We climbed up past a huge waterfall onto a valley looking up to a pass to high ground. Immediately I asked if we could camp in the valley, it looked very promising. This is a photograph taken the day after, camp is just at the edge of the Rhododendrons at about 10,260 feet. We are high up looking at plants and getting some great views.
16b I found a very dwarf Ilex pernyi, I believe. A holly with small red berries hidden in the foliage.
17b It was a real joy to be amongst so many fine plants, these valleys and mountains must be a wonderful sight in the spring and summer in full flower. There was a mass of Rhododendrons I was climbing around for some hours checking them out.
18b Looking back down the valley to where we had walked in the day before.
19b A view across to the plateau where we would be going the next day, we were really looking forward to getting up high.
 20b The next day we took the route round to the right for an easy climb up.
21b A few of the Rhododendrons I found on the hillside, this is Rhododendron crinigerum.
22b I thought this was Rhododendron rex but have been reliably told it does not occur in this area.
23b Rhododendron tephropeplum deleiense.
24b The very scaly reverse of the leaf; a good identifying factor.
25b Rhododendron tephropeplum.
26b Rhododendron rex ssp Nova again.
27b Rhododendron fulvum, usually with pink flowers.
28b Rhododendron sanguineum, it should have dark red flowers quite late in the season
29b Our camp site, the weather started off clear in the mornings then slowly clouded over, raining in the night but we never had to use our wet gear for the whole of the trip.
30b Rhododendron forrestii repens a choice species with large red flowers growing on the north side of steeply sloping hillocks amongst a mass of other creeping ericaceous plants.
31b At the top of the pass a perfect day. The weather was fantastic with clear blue sky and no wind.
32b There was some discussion as to where to camp but there was a good site just to the left of the "Anglap" lake. Bajai, our guide had bad news, only food for 15 men had been sent on the trek, we had twenty and only had enough food left now for two days. We just had no option, we just had to go down the next day instead of spending some days exploring the high area as planned, it really ruined what should have been the highlight of our time in Arunachal Pradesh.
33b We had lunch and as it was still quite early 12.00 noon I decided to climb up high as we had to go down the next day.
34b We found this bright red resting bud of a Primula at 11,260 feet.
35b Our guide and interpreter Bajai Pud was a good companion and considering no one locally had trekked before he did a fantastic job keeping things together. I wanted to go high as fast as possible and told Bajai that I would pay 100 Rupees for someone to go with me and carry my camera gear, he immediately volunteered but insisted on no payment, so we set off together climbing up steeply straight from camp. We got to about 12,500 feet and he told me he had never seen views like this of his own country before but would stay there,  I decided to continue climbing.
36b This was the small mountain I had my eyes on, it looked OK to get up from here.
37b After about an hour's climbing I was on top, and the views were superb. I could see right across to Namche Barwa on the Tibetan border ?
38b Looking back down the valley we had trekked up that morning, we counted ourselves very lucky with the weather, it was a wonderful clear day.
 39b My guess was that this was the route to the lakes we had planned to visit some days away.
 40b  This was the view more or less due east.
41b Looking off far into the distance to the big mountain at the head of Namdapha National Park.
42b We should have been over here if our original plans had gone well.
43b This would have been wonderful trekking but it was not going to be, this year.
44b A big mountain on the border to the east.
45b Rhododendron pumilum

46b
I am always pleased to find associated plants that go well with Rhododendrons. This Sorbus species had good large white tinged pink berries.
46b Early morning and just snatching a few shots of this wonderfully rich area covered in Lilies, Primulas, Gentians, of course Rhododendrons and a whole lot more. It must be a stunning picture when in full flower.
48b We set off down about 9.30 am following the stream down, as usual it became steeper and steeper until we were climbing down but we were all experienced and expected it to be difficult pioneering new routes. Our hunter guide looking up quite worried but we all climbed down quite safely. It turned out he had never been in the area before and was employed under a false understanding.
49b We arrived down at the camp site at about 12.30pm having stopped for a packed lunch on the way.
50b We were down to around 8,000 feet in a forest that was very beautiful with huge Rhododendron sinogrande, I think and a beautiful Acer with glowing yellow autumn colour. The porters were quite worried they wanted to set off early the next day to make sure we reached a village by nightfall. We had no real idea how long it would take us.
51b The log in the distance was the bridge across the river. I  was going to take my boots off for extra grip wearing only socks but I found myself halfway across in no time so committed I just strode out.
52b The porters told us they found this deer dead in the forest but my guess was that they found it in a trap set by local hunters whose trail we were following. They burned off the hair then proceeded to butcher it, Nerunda did not want to know so we set off after our lunch and left them to it. We waded the river, now quite wide a couple of times and were already quite tired and wet.
53bIt was quite late in the afternoon by the time we reached this wire crossing. I watched the porters going across; it looked quite easy so I tightened up my fairly heavy rucksack and they proceeded to tie me on. One slid across on a black wooden block with a  rope loop around the neck. I had not taken note that the far bank was a little higher than the one I was setting off from. I got just over halfway across and I really began to struggle. It was one of the hardest things I have done for some time. Michael was wise just pulling himself across without his pack. Here Magnus is being pulled across, one of his arms is not much use after a fall on ice some years ago.
54b We arrived at Mankhung village in the dark. We had been walking for about 11 to 12 hours, it was a long way. It was a very idealistic place. We were invited into the long house and were handed cups of Chang to drink which was very pleasant. We were in a major opium growing area and about five of the male occupants of the Long House were smoking it. Here we can see the head man and his wife who put on this finery just for the camera.
55b On our way out of the village we dropped in to see the local school. The children were very well behaved and seemed to be doing well. We asked the school teacher if there was anything we could supply for the school , we were very surprised when he declined saying, "the government supplied everything they wanted". In Nepal even basics like books and pens are much in demand.
56b Walking down to the road took about four hours as we were tired from the previous days efforts, we were hoping that Bajai had sorted out some transport to take us up the road to our next trek but it did not turn up so we camped alongside the road on a wide verge.
57bThe next day things were looking bleak as there was no transport. I got talking to the two engineers working on a new bridge and road about a kilometre away who spoke good English. They requested to see a USA dollar bill, I showed them a five dollar note. Immediately the engineer wanted me to take some Rupees in exchange which I was very happy to do at a good rate. After I had explained to them our dilemma they instructed us to walk up the road to their camp. A lorry was put to repair whilst we we plied with coffee then a cooked lunch. We discussed the ways of the world and they decided to have us driven right up to Bajai's village, Hawa, the starting point for our next trek. Very simply the hospitality shown and the generosity of these people was surprising to us after what we had read about past travels in the area.
Lower Trek C
TREK C

LAPHRONG VILLAGE, VIA THE LAPTI RIVER, TO THE MYANMAR (BURMA) BORDER PASS

  01c This is the lorry our hosts commandeered for us, we took some two hours to get up to Bajai's village, Hawa. We were instructed that under no circumstances should we pay anything. We were very grateful for the kindness shown.
02c Hawa is  the largest village in the area, the building in the distance is a long house, it was massive; some 100 feet long and built to a high standard out of wood with a tin roof.
03cThis memorial had been built for a young girl aged about 12 who had died recently and was the way the Mishmies had commemorated her.
  04c There were a number of villages in the area adjacent to each other. We were told that there was an e-mail service at Walla. We were shown into a hut. I expected the worst but imagine my surprise to see there were some 20 computers and they had satellite broadband, a really fast connection. We were able to e-mail home and reassure everyone as to our well-being.
 05c We had heard about a variegated bamboo this was it, quite a striking plant.
06c After a days rest that allowed us to collect ourselves we set off on our last trek towards the Burmese border. We dropped down to the Lapti river and then up to about the same height to the Laphrong village on the other side. It only was about four hours walking but we were told it was impossible to go further as there was nowhere to camp. This was a stunning Crawfurdia growing in profusion around the village.
07c Looking back, the Lapti river is coming in from the left, it was a long steady climb up and as we ascended the flora grew richer and richer with many Rhododendrons I could not recognise.
08c I think this is Rhododendron edgeworthii.
09c This Kenneth Cox tells me is Rhododendron beanianum. I put it down as R. piercei; just shows my lack of field knowledge seeing these species in the wild for the first time.
10c Many of the large leaved species here left me really wondering, a lack of experience on my part I'm afraid.
11c I thought this was possibly Rhododendron uvariifolium. R. fulvum was also in the area.
12c It was a long day climbing up from Laphrong village at 4,500 feet but the going was easy with a good trail to follow up to camp at 9,500 feet. The porters were late in so I arranged a flask of tea and sent it with Nerunda, our cook, down the trail with  torches for the latecomers. We were on a good trail it was quite well maintained by the government as it was the main trail over to Burma, now Myanmar.
13c No, I could not put a name to this. I guessed at Rhododendron rex but have been told it's not found in this area.
14c We had some great views as we climbed up to high camp the next day.
15c Rhododendron pocophorum or maybe R. fulvum. It had really nice indumentum.
16c My huge bright orange pack on its way to camp. I had it specially made by "Buxton Caving Supplies" to combat the wet weather but we never had rain during the day time.
17c Camp was at around 11,260 feet. The next day I decided to climb up high. I set off on my own, these places always seem more special with ones own company. I'm looking out approximately due north here.
18c These were the hills we had been trekking on some days before.
19c I was a bit disappointed I had not brought my crampons as these mountains looked a possibility as I was up to 13,260 feet and down by lunch time 12.30 but the weather did close in later.
20c It's very difficult to judge these peaks the small one in front gave me some nice views and was just a short walk again 13,260 feet.
21c Looking across to the mountain at the head of the Namdapha National Park I think this could be a good route in to climb it.
22c Another view of Namche Barwa I think, it was so clear we could see for over a hundred miles to the distant mountains.
23c We thought the peak to the left was Kato. We wanted to head round the back and south from there in our original planning following Kingdon Ward's route part way.
24c The peaks off to the east.
25c This was the route and pass over to Burma via this lake, I avoided it on the way up and down as it was freezing and icy underfoot.
26c We can see back to Bajai's village, Hawa from here. It could be done in two long days.
27c Another Rhododendron which I had problems with. It looked like a hairy Rhododendron camplylocarpum including curved seed heads. I thought it might be R. selense ssp dasycladum ?
28c Rhododendron ????????????
29c I immediately thought of Rhododendron praestans.
30c At camp that night it was clear Magnus was not well. I was quite worried and I took him cups of tea and soup in his tent. It was decided to go down the next day. We had planned another day at high camp but we had to be sensible. The next day Magnus really was very weak and it was obvious to Michael and I that it would be dark before we got anywhere near to the next camp. Everyone had long gone so I plied Magnus with aspirins gave him my flask of hot drink and set of running to catch up with the others already at camp.
31c At camp I instructed Bajai to take the porters  back up the trail with a means of carrying Magnus. Luckily he had felt much better a short while after I left him and they all strode into camp about an hour and a half later, but he did get his tent erected for him. Possibly Rhododendron protistum?
32c The next morning Magnus was very weak again so it was just a long slow plod down to Laphrong village. After lunch I went ahead clearing the trail before me.
33c Possibly Rhododendron sidereum ?
34c The autumn colours looking across the forest were very beautiful with the red of the Enkianthus and the contrasting yellow Acers.
35c Rhododendron taggianum. There was a whole mass of Rhododendrons I just could not place. I tried taking photographs but the camera kept playing up again; it just would not focus close.
36c Rhododendron edgeworthii again, I think.
37c Rhododendron stenaulum or R. leptocarpum.
38c Rhododendron mishmiense.
39c The boy in front had a catapult, he was after small birds, I thought he had no chance but a short while later he proudly showed me a small bird he had killed. He then started to take aim at another beautiful bird with dark blue plumage. I shouted at him to stop and told him I'd far rather see the bird alive and why did he want to kill it? He looked at me in amazement. I don't think anyone had ever protested before.
40c The walk back down to the river Lapti and up to the village of Hawa was very slow. Magnus was having to take his time. Jon Miceler meet us and arranged for our drive to Tezu the next day. At Tezu we slept at the government rest house again and set out from there at about 8.30pm the next day to Dibrugarh. The vehicle was really playing up. It would not start, so we all tried push starting it many yards down the road to no avail. I flagged down a large lorry, the driver came some distance to give us a tow which worked! The engine fired up easily. I took a one hundred Rupee note to give to the driver, more that a days wages for him, he flatly refuse to take it. The hospitality and sense of helping a fellow traveller again came up, I was very impressed. All the past stories of the difficulty in dealing with these people was now absolutely wrong. In our experiences we found them charming in all respects. This was The Victoria Memorial in Calcutta. The pollution was dreadful so I remained in the hotel most of the time.
CONCLUSION Pioneering trekking of this type can be very difficult, so much can go wrong. There is no history of trekking in these areas with virtually no commerce from the Lohit area to Tibet, so unlike Nepal, only hunters trial's could be used and these were scant. The only local member of our group that had actually been in the high areas above the villages were the hunters and the impression was that they had been no more than a days walk away. It was very unusual for a trekking crew to want to climb up high but without exception the porters from Hawa wanted to see for themselves the countryside and they were impressed. We were disappointed with the amount of wildlife we saw, possibly as we were so late in the season but also the pressure from the hunters setting traps and shooting at every opportunity must take a serious toll. Owing to the difficulty of getting into the Lohit region in the past it has remained isolated and unspoilt but things are changing, a new bridge is due to be opened in 2004. This will give access to the logging industry so the controls will need to be very stringent to prevent the desecration of this beautiful unspoilt region. The restrictions to stop this area being flooded by the mass of the lowland population has worked extremely well. It has retained a greater part of its ethnic identity. Although things did go wrong we achieved a great deal and I am keen to repeat the experience.

Many thanks to Peter Cox, Kenneth Cox and Jens Nielsen for their help in trying to identify Rhododendrons with very limited information.

For more information please contact me

David Ketley

Dunge Valley Hidden Gardens
& Hardy Plant Nursery,
Windgather Rocks, Kettleshulme,
Nr. Whaley Bridge, (Stockport)
High Peak, SK23 7RF,
ENGLAND
Tel / Fax: 01663 733787

E-mail me at david@dungevalley.co.uk

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